Let me first start with a warning. This was the most frustrating project to date and I'm glad its over.
I assume that most folks reading this blog are mechanically inclined so I won't try to provide a detailed step-by-step write-up but instead offer some tips and observations.
The basic premise of course is to undo the old broken stuff and then put in the new stuff, I wish it had been that simple.
Step One:
This was my first mistake. Had I manged to watch the video called "
So I first removed the door and window handles, followed by the interior door panel. This was going to be easy. Next I went to remove the window regulator, door latch mechanism and screws holding the vent window.
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After breaking off the heads of some of the clutch style screws, and spending the next hour or so drilling and tapping, you will now enter the bowels of the door cavity. This is where you stick you hands into a place that you can't really see and there are moving parts that may cut off bits of fingers.
At this point you will mange to somehow get the window off the roller guides and window regulator, its like a Rubiks cube made out of leftover metal parts that have purpose.
Next you will need to remove the four screws that hold the metal tabs around the vent window, but be careful as they seem to be made out of leftover pot-metal and will strip easily. I was fortunate as one vent window only had a single screw holding it in and the other only had two. I can only assume that some poor soul had ventured into this project before. Also be careful not to lose the screws into the door as it will be lost into a toxic pile of rust and tree decay, on the other hand you might as well go buy some real screws to replace the ones missing or the ones you drop.
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Step Two:
With three boys running around this was a good time to make sure the windows were protected and would not be stepped on or knocked over.
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Next I decided to focus on cleaning and lubing the window regulator. This was a fairly straight forward task and required the normal wire brush for rust removal. I tried for sometime to remove the strange mating call caused by the main spring and was unsuccessful. I can only assume that this was designed by the GMC Truck and Coach Division engineers as a warning to make sure your head or fingers were not in the way of the moving glass.
Why you ask? Because in the YouTube video I mentioned his did the same thing and he did it right!
Step Three:
Now I went to the main window. Nothing seemed to be done really except to clean it up. Done. However now that I am enlightened I would have removed the two clutch style bolts that held the guide in place (on other side of window in photo). Upon install this would be the holy grail I was seeking.
As I reflect on why I did not remove those screws, I still get a shiver down my spine at the thought of removing two more rusted screws requiring another 45 minutes to destroy and fix.
Step Four:
Ok now we are getting to the fun stuff. I started with trying to remove the old rubber from the vent window. Razor blades and small flat blade screwdrivers will be your tools of choice. When I say rubber what I really mean is that black stuff that oscillates between concrete and brittle plastic after 45 years of sunshine. The primary focus on this task is to NOT slice your hands or fingers with the razor blade or puncture your palm with the screw driver.
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The last two steps are to remove 4 rivets that hold a vertical seal and the process of releasing the vent window from the assembly so the new rubber seal can be put into place. I unfortunately chose the wrong one to start first.
With the assembly held in place in my vice I grabbed my drill and began to remove the rivets. This tip concerns using the right drill bit instead of the one that was already in the drill. In doing so you will create a hole that is to large for the new rivet to fit into. Learn from this and don't do it on the next window.
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With all the rubber like stuff finally removed I now went to work on releasing the vent window from the assembly. It seems simple enough. Remove nut on shaft of vent window, lefty loosey. After several minutes of confusion, various rust removal chemicals and a wire brush I finally had a epiphany. The nut is held tight with what I call the "panty liner" washer. It has wings to hold the nut in place.
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Once I figured this out the spring, washers and bits of rust all came off. There are a few more washer type things to remove but you can't get to these until the opposite end is removed first because the shaft is too long.
Anyway, the next part is a bit scary as the only way I could figure out how to remove the vent window was to pull up and slightly bend the metal frame to allow the pivot stud to slide out. It works.
As you pull out the shaft remember which way the parts go or you will spend more time having to figure out how the "comma" washer goes. Its purpose is to prevent you from opening the vent to far. I call it the comma washer cause it looks like a comma.
With that I was able to clean up the shaft and other parts nicely and was half way done, in steps, not time.
Step Five:
One of the best tips was to put liquid dish soap on the new rubber mold so that it slides easily only the metal frame. Works like a charm and allows you to wash your hands and get a drink at the same time.
Then it came time to put in the new vertical seal and rivets. Since I made a mistake earlier with the drill I had to place the rivets in the opposite direction. It looks nice and does not seem to be an issue except for one vent window that is slowly grinding the glass down to make room for the raised rivet head. Small issue to me. The photo shows the rivet sticking up because I have not yet set it into place.
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With the new rubber it was looking good and I felt encouraged that perhaps the dark days were behind me.
Step Six:
Installing the vent window through the new rubber mold was tricky as the clearance from before was even less now. Which means I had to bend the frame even more to get the pivot point stud in place. Again this work to my amazement. I found out later that when I installed the assembly I would be able to manipulate the frame back into position for each tab and screw. It will make sense later when you do this yourself.
Put back the various washers and spring then finger tighten the nut. At this point you need to test the vent to make sure it is tight enough to hold the vent open when driving down the road but not to tight that it requires two hands to open. Once satisfied push the wings back into place and you are done with that.
Step Seven:
The main window is suppose to be held into place by the felt channel that runs from the bowels of the door up along the side and curves to the top. So when you drive down the road the window is held in position by this channel weather rolled up or not.
I read an article about this some place and so I started with a test fitting and cutting the channel to the right length and then gluing the channel in place inside the door only.
Step Eight:
I will not bore you with the details of this next step except to remind you to watch the YouTube video to know how to easily install the window properly.
During step eight I manged to drop the window and window regulator several times into the cavern of the door. Keep in mind that as I did this each time the recently lubed rollers and guides would now pick up dust and rust like cat hair on suede suit. After many tries I manged to get all three rollers in the right spots and and the vent and main window to live side by side.
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Then I realized that I made a mistake. The new felt channel is suppose to have these 4 metal tabs that attach with two prongs. It might seem like no big deal but its like trying to stick a gummy bear on a dogs tail. Enough said, and the next window I was smarter.
The photos above show the old channel that has lost its cloth cover, but the tabs are clear.
Step Nine:
This is the final step and I highly recommend that you do this BEFORE any window is installed. They are called inner and outer wipes. These thin strips of metal with felt attached on one side and four "button" on the other. The primary issue is that these buttons are in theory suppose to lineup with the corresponding four holes in the door.
Apparently either GMC did not have a standard to hole spacing or the aftermarket part is for the wrong truck. I was vindicated later watching the YouTube video and he also had the same issue.
The fix requires grinding and "shaping" the buttons to fit. Without a window to get into the way it is easy to do this, however once you have installed the window you will now find that the clearance is VERY limited and will require a faith that you might not have.
Had I been doing this on a newly painted door I can tell you I would be very concerned and hesitant to install these wipes.
Final Thoughts
This ended up being a two day project and lots of slices and scratches to reach my health deductible for the year. However the result was immediate and wonderful. Driving down the road I can talk with my wife without yelling, unless I want to and the water stays out.
The down side is that I can now hear the engine and other mechanical bits that I am not use to hearing and not sure if they are about to fall apart.
